Sustainability is the new black, fashion experts say

Sustainability is the new black, fashion experts say

As Melbourne Fashion Week kicks off, experts from RMIT's globally renowned School of Fashion and Textiles weigh in on some of the industry's hot topics.

The renowned festival provides an opportunity for the diverse fashion industry and related sectors to connect, present and celebrate.

It’s also a time for discussion and reflection on where the industry is heading. According to leaders from the School of Fashion and Textiles, some of the key themes likely to be occupying the mind of the future fashion graduate will be technology, circular design and sustainable materials.

Robyn Healy's portrait Dean of the School of Fashion and Textiles, Professor Robyn Healy

Dean of the School, Professor Robyn Healy said a changing industry meant new jobs were emerging, with specific roles opening up as a growing number of companies focused on sustainability.

“We tend to think of technology as removing jobs – ones that we are familiar with now – but it also creates opportunities for new jobs that are still emerging,” she said.

“Fashion graduates will need to be conversant with technology, but as global citizens, they must develop an understanding of its impact on people and the world.”

Healy said it was time to rethink our connection to clothing and relationship to the planet.

“People are now designing for 3 – 4 lives of a garment, she said.

“’Fast fashion’ might be something you wear for five days, dig into the backyard and soon it’s growing or sprouting.”

Associate Dean Fashion and Textiles Technology, Dr Jenny Underwood said the digital revolution was well on the way to transforming every aspect of the fashion industry, from design and manufacture, to the way we experience fashion.

“Innovations like robotics making clothes, garments grown in a lab or perhaps crafted algorithmically are already happening,” she said.

“There are ‘sewbots’ that can make a T-shirt in 22 seconds and bio-designed clothing concepts.

“Smart clothing solutions will support health care and wellbeing, provide protection and enhance performance.”

Underwood said improved environmental, social and ethical practices across the fashion industry will be fundamental to all these developments, to bring about greater transparency, fairness, and the shift to a circular economy.

Associate Dean of Fashion and Textiles Design, Dr Ricarda Bigolin agreed that a key shift to more sustainable, ethical and inclusive ways of working was needed globally.

She said the significant rise in the resale market in fashion was an antidote to the disposable fashion purchased in low-priced, ‘fast fashion’ outlets.

“Fashion designers are now asking more questions around how the industry affects the environment, people and economies around them and consider more deeply how their designs will be used and experienced, and what happens to them after they are no longer worn,” she said

“There has been a significant increase in the fashion designers using reclaimed or recycled materials and this is visible in all different markets globally.”

Associate Dean Industry Engagement, School of Fashion and Textiles, Kiri Delly Associate Dean Industry Engagement, School of Fashion and Textiles, Kiri Delly

While much has been made of bricks and mortar stores closing and the problems faced by mainstream fashion retailers, Associate Dean for Fashion Enterprise Dr Stephen Wigley said that was only half the story.

He said the fashion industry was thriving and as successful as ever behind the scenes. 

“Consumers are shifting to buying online and that's causing businesses to rethink and rationalise their stores, but the growth of ecommerce is bringing new jobs to the industry and creating new opportunities for smaller brands to grow, he said. 

“At the same time, businesses are being innovative in how they use retail, for example in using pop-ups to promote limited-edition lines or brand collaborations.

“Others are showcasing their sustainability credentials as Country Road did with its new Chadstone store, which opened earlier this month, and a partnership with Australia Post announced this week to deliver their products in sustainable packaging.

On the local scene, Associate Dean – Industry Engagement Kiri Delly said the Australian fashion industry is increasingly developing its own identity, style and story. 

“The ‘tyranny of distance’ experienced by Australian fashion in the past has diminished thanks to digital technology and strong interest from Asian markets looking for something different to the traditional luxury brands of Europe, she said.

“They are drawn to Australia’s attitude and lifestyle.”

With the Victorian Government in the process of a public consultation on its 2020 – 2024 Creative Industries Strategy, fashion will continue to play a key role - economically, culturally and socially.

 

Story: Karen Phelan

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